很多人去貴州,第一反應是黃果樹瀑布,第二反應是荔波,第三反應是鎮遠古鎮。
興義,通常不在這個序列里。
但興義是貴州面積第二大的縣級市,它有一片峽谷,一片石林,一個在其他任何地方都看不到的地形——萬峰林。
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萬峰林的峰數超過兩萬座,是世界上面積最大的喀斯特峰林盆地,這個頭銜聽起來很學術,但站在田壩中間向四周望,就能明白為什么地理學家會反復用"震撼"這個詞。
東峰林和西峰林是兩種截然不同的氣質。東峰林更秀麗,石峰如筆尖林立,峰與峰之間夾著梯田和村莊,四月油菜花謝了,梯田剛插完秧苗,綠色從谷底一層一層疊上去。西峰林則更粗獷,峰體高大,坡度陡峭,適合徒步爬上去俯瞰盆地全貌。
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萬峰林里有布依族村寨,不是景區化的那種,是真的有人住的老寨子——木結構房屋、石頭院墻、手工織就的布依族蠟染門簾,進村走走,能遇到織布的老婦人,也能遇到用普通話賣野蜂蜜的小孩。
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馬嶺河峽谷,地表幾乎看不出異常——就是一片平坦的紅土壩子,走到邊緣往下看,整個世界忽然向下崩開。
峽谷深約120-200米,長約74公里,兩岸絕壁垂直,紅褐色巖層清晰可辨,峽谷壁上掛著形態各異的瀑布,最大的直落七八十米,水花在陽光下散成霧氣。
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正規劃定河段的漂流是馬嶺河經典玩法,全程約12公里、水流湍急,橡皮艇從峽谷壁之間穿過,兩岸巖壁高聳壓迫,頭頂只剩一線天空。沒有漂流經驗的人一開始都會攥緊船繩,到后來習慣了,才來得及抬頭看兩岸的巖畫。
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知道興義有個雨補魯的人不多。雨補魯是一個落在天坑底部的布依族村莊——坑口直徑約350米,村子就在坑底,四周被數十米高的崖壁環繞,陽光從坑口斜射進來,打在石頭房屋上。
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村里有一棵大榕樹,樹根盤踞整個院壩,樹冠遮住了半個村子,據說樹齡超過五百年。進村要沿著坡路走下去,路窄而陡,回頭看來路,是一圈天邊。村民不做旅游生意,有幾戶人家會做飯留客吃飯,蕨菜炒臘肉,酸湯煮豆腐,在天坑里吃一頓飯,這件事本身就很難忘。
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興義的羊肉粉是貴州最好吃的粉之一,這一點黔西南人自己會說。清湯羊肉粉,粉條細軟,湯底是慢火熬出來的乳白色,上面浮著花椒油和蔥花,配上一碟腌蘿卜和辣椒,一碗下肚,寒氣全散。本地人不吃辣的不多,點粉的時候說"少辣"會得到一個含義不明的眼神。
興義還產刺梨酒,用貴州特產刺梨釀造,酸澀中帶著果香,是下午茶也是送禮佳品,市場上有玻璃瓶散裝的,一斤三四十元,比名酒實惠,比量販酒有個性。
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興義沒有什么全國性的營銷,它的火,靠的是第一批走進萬峰林的人口口相傳。飛豬今年把貴州黔西南列為五一黑馬目的地,這個評價,晚了至少五年。
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